The Comma shop was, until recently, out of stock of the Ford Q4 harness with a long lead time, but Mr One (a clone shop) has one. The problem is, the Mr One harness is a V1 harness with a 26pin molex, that comes with a harness box sans Comma Power input. The latest Comma harness box is compatible with V3 harnesses that have a 18pin molex.
I already had the Comma harness box from my previous car, but it wasn’t compatible with the Mr One harness. I wanted to install my Comma Power in my new car, so I decided to re-pin the V1 harness with the V3 connector.
Conveniently, both versions use the same Molex connector family, with the same contacts. The V1 is a 501646-2600 26pin connector, and the V3 is a 501646-1800 18pin. I ordered the 18pin from DigiKey for $1, $5 shipping.
Repinning is just a matter of determining the correct signals by comparing your current harness to the drawing. Here’s the V1 harness drawing, and here’s the V3 drawing. This is the V1 Harness Box connector:
By comparing to my Mr One harness, I came up with the following signal list on the 26pin connector:
| Pin | Color | Signal |
| 1 | Black | GND to car |
| 2 | Brown | Ign. to car |
| 4 | Purple | CAN_0H to car |
| 6 | Green | CAN_0L to car |
| 8 | White | CAN_1H to car |
| 10 | Blue | CAN_1L to car |
| 16 | Brown | Ign. to IPMA |
| 18 | White | CAN_1H to IPMA |
| 20 | Blue | CAN_1L to IPMA |
| 22 | Purple | CAN_2H to IPMA |
| 24 | Green | CAN_2L to IPMA |
| 26 | Black | GND to IPMA |
From that list, we can de-pin the 26pin connector (lift the latches with a pair of sharp tweezers while pulling on the wire) and re-place them in the 18pin v3 connector per the drawing:
All finished:
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